New Build & Renovation Planner
Build it right the first time.
Get a priority-ordered checklist of every energy and efficiency decision — before your architect or contractor makes them for you.
1 — What's your project?
2 — Total project budget?
3 — What matters most to you?
Do this before you do anything else.
Talk to a building science consultant BEFORE talking to any contractor or architect. The design decisions made in the first 10% of a project determine 90% of the energy performance.
1
Building envelope — first, always
Airtightness + insulation + windows
Airtightness target
Passive House standard: <1.5 ACH50
Insulation benchmarks
- Walls: R-30 minimum (R-40+ in Climate Zones 5–7)
- Attic / roof: R-60 minimum
- Windows: triple-pane in Climate Zone 4 and colder; double-pane low-e in CZ1–3
- Foundation / slab: continuous thermal break
Lasts the life of the building
"The envelope lasts the life of the building. You can swap equipment. You cannot easily add wall insulation later."
2
Mechanical ventilation — ERV or HRV
Required once the envelope is tight
Why you need it
A tight building doesn't breathe naturally. Without mechanical ventilation you'll get moisture buildup, CO₂ accumulation, and poor indoor air quality.
ERV vs HRV
- ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator) — recovers heat AND moisture. Best for most climates.
- HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) — recovers heat only. Better for very cold, dry climates.
Installed: $3,000 – $8,000
Required for <2.0 ACH50
3
Right-sized heat pump HVAC
Manual J load calc required
The critical rule
Insist on a Manual J load calculation before any equipment is specified.
A Passive House-level envelope typically needs 1/4 the HVAC capacity of a code-minimum build. Contractors who size by square footage will massively oversize your system — leading to short-cycling, humidity problems, and wasted money.
System options
- Mini-split multi-zone — best flexibility, no ductwork needed
- Central ducted heat pump — better for open-plan layouts with existing or new ductwork
- Heat pump + ERV integrated system (e.g. Minotair, Airmaster) — emerging option for tight builds
"Do not let a contractor size by square footage — insist on Manual J."
CA: up to $3,000 rebate
4
Heat pump water heater
Always. Never gas in a new build.
Heat pump water heaters are 3–4× more efficient than resistance electric or gas. In a new build, there is no reason to install anything else.
Recommended models
- Rheem ProTerra 80-gallon — best for households of 3+
- A.O. Smith HPTU-50N — strong performer, quieter
- Size up: HPWHs are cheaper to run, so bigger tank = more flexibility
Installed: $1,200 – $2,000
TECH CA rebate: up to $1,000
BayREN / SoCalGas: varies
5
Induction range — skip the gas line
Simpler. Cleaner. Faster.
If you're building new, don't run gas to the kitchen. Induction is faster than gas, produces no combustion byproducts indoors, and eliminates a source of NOₓ pollution linked to asthma.
What you need
- 240V / 50A dedicated circuit to range location
- Range hood still required (range hood vented outdoors preferred)
- Induction-compatible cookware (cast iron, stainless steel)
"If building new, don't run gas to the kitchen."
Range: $800 – $2,500+
No gas line = saves $500–$2,000 in pipe cost
6
200A+ electrical panel
400A if budget allows
An all-electric home with EV charging, heat pump HVAC, HPWH, induction, and battery storage can easily push peak loads past 150A. Oversize now — it's dramatically cheaper during construction than after the walls are closed.
Planning your capacity
- 200A minimum for all-electric with 1 EV
- 400A recommended: 2+ EVs, battery storage, large home
- Consider a smart electrical panel (Span, Leviton) for load management
- Install subpanels near garage and utility room during rough-in
200A panel: $1,500–$3,000 installed
400A service upgrade: $4,000–$8,000
10–20× cheaper now than post-construction
7
EV charger rough-in
Even if you have no EV today
Run conduit and a 240V / 50A circuit to the garage during construction. If you don't have an EV today, you will. Or the next owner will. The conduit costs almost nothing while walls are open.
What to specify
- 1-inch conduit stub to garage — leave pull string inside
- 240V / 50A circuit breaker reserved (labeled "EV future")
- If installing now: ChargePoint Home Flex or Tesla Wall Connector
- Consider 2 circuits if 2-car garage
Rough-in during construction: ~$300
Retrofit later: $1,500–$3,000+
8
Solar + battery storage
Size AFTER the envelope and systems are designed
Solar is last on this list deliberately. A tight envelope with right-sized systems will cut your load dramatically. Size solar to cover what remains — not the original code-minimum load.
"Design the house to need less. Then size solar to cover what's left."
Battery storage
- Tesla Powerwall 3, Franklin WH5000, Enphase IQ Battery — all solid choices
- In California: NEM 3.0 makes battery storage more valuable than ever (self-consumption priority)
- Whole-home backup: typically 2–3 batteries needed
Incentives (2026)
- No federal solar tax credit in 2026 (ITC expired)
- California SGIP rebate for battery storage: still active, check current levels
- Some utility programs: check PG&E, SCE, SDG&E
CA SGIP rebate for battery
9
Smart home integration — last, not first
Nice to have, not performance-critical
Smart features do not affect energy performance in any meaningful way. They're conveniences. Do not let them drive design decisions or consume budget that should go toward the envelope.
Recommended baseline
- Thermostat: Ecobee Smart Premium — integrates with most systems, has built-in sensors
- Lighting: Lutron Caseta for switches, Ketra for color-tunable (if budget allows)
- Water leak: Moen Flo or Phyn Plus on main line
"Smart features are nice but don't affect energy performance. Don't let them drive the design."